Sheet Metal Bending #sheet #metal #hand #brake, #box #and #pan #brake, #sheet


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Sheet Metal Hand Brake Machines by Chicago Dreis Krump

Our metal benders are available in standard straight bending or Box Pan brake style, floor mounted or benchtop and even push button control with hydraulic power. A sheet metal hand brake normally bends sheet metal by using a hinged clamping bar to hold the metal down against the bed. A hinged bending “leaf” is lifted to fold the metal around the fulcrum point of the clamping bar to the desired angle which is controlled using a stop rod.
A box and pan brake machine is needed to avoid having the metal hit against the clamping bar when the 3rd and 4th sides are being bent. This is done by removing a “finger” from the clamping bar at each end of the box since the clamping bar is divided up into many sub-assemblies called “fingers”.

Chicago Dreis Krump offers more machine options: Extension Fingers are used to form inside corners with a return flange across the top. See pictures above and down below. Open End Fingers are used to form tubes of triangular, square, rectangular, or tapered shape. See picture below. Radius Nose Bars are available for bending your metal around a radius, which is useful for bending aircraft aluminum. See picture below. An insert bar is used to form offset (“zig-zag”) bends close together. Radius formers are attachments used for hand forming of thin sheet metal shapes such as gutters, architectural mouldings and prototype modeling.

Don’t settle for a poorly engineered machine. Since the Chicago Dreis & Krump Company pioneered the standard sheet metal bending Hand Brake in the year 1899, lots of people have copied their designs, but none have been able to surpass their quality, engineering, dependability, or options, then or now. Available options include a handwheel back gauge, extra small insert bar, radius formers, open end fingers, extension fingers, radius nose bars, and even push button hydraulic powered metal bending.
For even more info, click for our instructions How to use a Sheet Metal Brake .
If you need parts for your old Chicago Dreis & Krump machine; CLICK HERE to see a parts list.
If you dont want use the strength of your back and arms to manually bend metal on a Hand Brake machine, we offer a push button electric-hydraulic power leaf brake machine to do the same work.
Also see the new innovative magnetic powered hand brake down below.

Below is a conversion chart that converts sheet metal gauge numbers into metal thickness.

STANDARD SHEET METAL HAND BRAKE:

Chicago Dreis & Krump heavy duty machinery construction. Designed for accurate and economical bending of standard and special design forms. Ideal for bending mild steel with a 1 inch minimum flange to the rated capacity of the machine. Capable of 1/4 inch reverse bends on lighter metal. Even usuable for occassional hemming.

Options most hand brakes can’t offer:
� Handwheel Back Gauge – 25 inch travel to measure and square up your metal (see below)
� Insert Bar – 1/4 inch (for closer offset bends)
� Radius Formers – for forming gutters, mouldings, prototypes, etc, from thin sheet metal.

NOTE: Mild Steel = 55,000 psi tensile strength and Stainless Steel = 90,000 psi tensile strength

BOX & PAN SHEET METAL HAND BRAKE: See chart below.
Incorporates all of the outstanding features of the standard hand brake plus removable, sectioned fingers that can bend any length of metal from 3 inches long to the full length of the machine. Boxes and pans can be up to 6 inches deep. A very versatile well built Chicago Dreis & Krump machine.

Options most hand brakes can’t offer:
� Handwheel Back Gauge with 25″ travel to measure and square up your metal (see below)
� Extension Fingers (to form rigid inside corners with a return flange across the top)
� Open End Fingers (to form tubes of triangular, square, rectangular, or tapered shape)
� Radius Nose Bars up to 1.5″ (great for aluminum aircraft work)
� Insert Bar – 1/4 inch (for closer offset bends)
� Radius Formers – for forming gutters, mouldings, prototypes, from thin sheet metal.

Add an optional Chicago Dreis & Krump Back Gauge:

Who says a hand brake can’t have sophistication?
Tired of always using a tape measure to mark lines that must be lined up with the nose bar? This back gauge has a 25 inch travel with a inch/cm scale so it is a must for those who want a labor saving, time saving, accuracy improving hand cranked back gauge to speed up production and improve quality. It measures where your metal bend will be and it squares up your metal to the machine.

BENCHTOP / PORTABLE SHEET METAL HAND BRAKE

Tabletop Standard Sheet Metal Brake:

The full featured machines are constructed with hefty steel weldments using brass hinge pins for smooth operation and trouble free forming. Clamp handles include plastic covers for positive grip. Their easy operation, precision performance, portability and cost make them perfect for light duty table top use, on-site work, sheet metal shops, industry and vocational schools.
Click to Request a formal Quote

Magnetic Box Pan Sheet Metal Hand Brake

A magnet holds your metal during bending!
Maximum Length: Choose from 48 long or 96 long
Maximum thickness: 16 gauge steel or 20 gauge stainless.
Electric Power: 220 volts, 1 phase.
Click to Request a Quote for the 48 machine

Click to Request a Quote for the 96 machine

A strong 6 ton magnet in the bed is activated by foot pedal or push button control to hold down a mild steel clamping bar of almost any configuration across the bed width or bed length. The sheet metal is pinned between the magnetic mild steel clamping bar. The bottom bending leaf is lifted to make the bend. The steel clamping bar can be made of straight bars (of various widths for tight boxes) for straight bends or segmented clamping bars for box and pan applications of any other configuration such as totally enclosed boxes, triangles, alternate bends on varying planes, round items such as scrolling applications, and much more. Great for bending mild steel sheet metal, stainless steel, aluminum, coated materials, and heated plastics. The bottom leaf�s bending extension can be removed for the tightest bends. The scaled stroke angle control can be set for repeat bends. Parts supports and adjustable back gauge for production runs, easy to use gap adjustments on the clamping bars for different sheet metal thicknesses.


Click to Request a Quote for this machine

Diamond Pattern Forming Machine GMC DFM-20

This machine forms Diamond Plate Pattern on stainless steel for truck doors, catering trucks, kitchen, etc.
Features: Capacity 50″ x 20 gauge Stainless Steel.
Motor: 2 HP, 110 Volts. Variable Speed.
Infeed table with side gauge.
Machine weight: 1650 Lbs
Dimensions: 63″ x 53″ x 43 inches
Made in Taiwan

Hand Operated Sheet Metal Notcher

To notch out the corners for making box or pan shapes using pull down lever
Maximum Force: 4 Tons
Max Notching size: 6″ x 6″
Metal Capacity: 16 gauge (.06″) [1.6mm]
Stroke: 3/4″

$ 695. Call 773-334-5000 to order this machine.
Weight: 220 pounds. Optional Stand: $195.

Click to go to our HVAC machinery and tools page

Click to go to our Dreis & Krump Hydraulic Shear page

American Machine Tools Corp.
5864 Northwest Hwy
Chicago IL 60631 USA
Phone: 773-334-5000
Fax: 773-442-0314

Click to email us

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Connecting to the Brake Light Switch – Connecting to the Brake Light


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How Brake Light Wiring Works

When you press the brake pedal, remember that you’re triggering the brake light switch, too.

Burazin/Photographer’s Choice RR/Getty Images

­If your brake light switch isn’t working properly, there’s a chance that you could be driving under risky conditions. Your brake lights may not light up when you press on the brake pedal or they may stay lit regardless of whether you’re pressing the pedal or not. Or perhaps, some switch malfunction is causing the lights to operate intermittently. So you can see the problem: If you don’t regularly check your brake lights for proper operation, you may be driving around town with no brake lights at all; brake lights that are continuously on; or brake lights that work only part of the time. Either way, it’s dangerous to you and other drivers around you.

Before you get too anxious about the brake work that you may or may not need, you may want to investigate the problem yourself. Actually, it may be an easier fix than you think, just by investigating your brake light switch. You can see your brake light switch by looking under the dash, near the top of the brake pedal. The brake light switch is usually attached to a small bracket that holds the switch, activated when the pedal is depressed, in position.

Keep Reading Below

Once you’ve located the switch, check to make sure that the brake light switch’s electrical connection is firmly attached and that all of the wires connecting to the brake light switch are in good condition (at least as far as you can see from your position). Then check to make sure that the switch isn’t out of position or stuck in the on or off position. Unless there’s been a failure somewhere within the switch itself — a highly unlikely problem, by the way — it’s relatively simple to decide if the switch is at fault.

If you’re able to determine that it is indeed your brake light switch that’s at fault, replacement is simple. In fact, it’s likely that you won’t even have to get your hands dirty to complete a brake repair of this sort. Remember, there are several different types of brake switches available, including ­hydraulic brake switches, so be sure to get the one that’s right for your specific vehicle. You’ll need to know the make, model and year of your vehicle but really that’s about all. Your local auto parts store should be able to locate the correct part for you.

It may seem elementary, but remember that it’s important to properly diagnose the problem prior to buying any repair parts. It won’t do you any good to buy a new brake light switch if the problem is in the wiring leading up to the switch, in the connector itself or in the wiring that goes from the switch to the brake lights at the rear of the vehicle.

So as you can see, sometimes fixing brakes — or rather, fixing brake light wiring — doesn’t have to be as complicated as it initially sounds. Read the next page to find out about connecting the brake lights themselves.

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